I'm using Hanoi as a base for a hub-and-spoke approach to seeing Northern Vietnam. I am now back in Hanoi from Lao Cai / Sapa, where I went for a two-day hike through the mountains and terraced rice fields in the area near Sapa. Another beautiful spot.
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Before I relate details on Sapa, a few more thoughts / tips on motorcycle taxi negotiations (I had to take one from the train station to the hotel from which I'm writing):
1) Keep walking. Ignore the army of drivers who try to talk to you, grab your bags (gently, as if to say, "Here, give to me. I drive you. You like. I cheap."), or even your person.
2) Wait for them to form a competitive group of about five or ten, and then make them bid for your business. "Who's cheapest? Is it you? Is it you?" One will eventually break from the cartel.
3) Act more offended at their price quote than they at yours. The acceptable rate from the train station to my hotel is about 30,000 dong (less than $2; you negotiate out of pride and immaturity, not monetary concerns). They quoted 30k, I walked off. Then 20k, I held. (I tried to look pissed off; I was tired from the train and annoyed that they kept grabbing my sunburned forearm, so I wasn't totally bluffing).
Finally I got one of them down to 15k, restated the address specifically, and got onto the cycle. We got no more than a few feet down the road before the guy's boss stopped us, asked what his subordinate agreed to, and then indignantly kicked me off.
Another driver agreed to 20k. He took me to a different address than the one I requested, then demanded the extra 10k to actually get me there. No way, pal. He called me a few names in Vietnamese, and then slipped in a French one (salope--it's pretty unpleasant), but I'm now back at the hotel, 10k still in my wallet.
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Sapa, again, was beautiful. We were blessed with good weather the whole time, as well.
Our tour group (me, plus a couple from Montreal, a couple from Malaysia, and a few others we picked up along the way) had one "official" guide, Tong, but we were accompanied by dozens more unofficial ones--H'mong tribeswomen who live in various villages throughout the valley. They're busy women: In addition to their household responsibilities, they spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to sell junk--bracelets, bags, and so on--to tourists hiking the trails. Many are pregnant or nursing small children, as well.
They're very amiable people, though not without an angle. One woman, Mai, spent more than an hour chatting with me (the women generally speak good English, due to their constant interaction with tourists), and even gave me a "free" friendship bracelet. Then she asked me to give her something for "free." Clever gal, redefining the meaning of that term. I gave her some unchanged HK money I found in my backpack.
We spent the night at a guest house in Ta Van village. Our hosts cooked us a dinner of chicken, vegetables, rice, and spring rolls--pretty basic Vietnamese fare--and then we all shared a bit too much homemade rice wine. I recall a dance party, too.
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I took a night train from Lao Cai (from which you take a bus to reach Sapa), and arrived in Hanoi at about 4:30 AM this morning. I've now got just enough time to grab an iced coffee before heading out for two days to Halong Bay, on Vietnam's east coast. I need the coffee.
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